Real Cowboy Style

This post belongs further back in the scheme of things, somewhere in between Nashville and Chattanooga actually, but I’ve only just got the photos developed, so it’s going here.

A phone conversation.

Woman: Hello, Juro Stables…

Me: Hi, I was wondering whether my brother and I could come on out and go riding?

Woman: Well, sure, are you country boys?

Me: Yes ma’am!

Woman: So, what level do y’all ride at?

Me: Well, y’see… it’s been a while now… I erm.. well.. let’s just say beginner?

Woman: Right. I understand.

Moral of the story? Don’t ever say you’re a “country boy” in Nashville unless you really are a country boy. Living near the countryside or having trees near your house doesn’t count. In Nashville, country boys can ride horses.

We went out there, parked, discovered we’d forgotten the camera, drove at light speed to the nearest store, bought camera, returned, got saddled up. A hectic start, but it was the start of an unforgettable experience.

Our guide was Brandon: he really is a cowboy. He trains horses for a living, has the cowboy walk, and rides rodeo: real buckaroo, bareback bull-riding rodeo. He was awesome. The guides here don’t get paid — they’re volunteers, so you are expected, as they say at Juro Stables, “to kiss your horse and tip your guide”. We did both.

It was like going back in time to when the horse was the central point of commerce and travel for the world. We were out in the forests and plains of Tennessee, not a road or a car in sight, but just pure, unadulterated nature. The air tasted different, the colors were brighter, and we were at one with horses, and there’s nothing like getting on a horse to rekindle your respect for nature’s creations. As we tromped around, Brandon told us all about what the horses were used for in working situations: there are trail horses for basic riding an’ roping; ranch horses, trained to pull uncooperative cattle onto the right paths; cutting horses which act like sheepdogs do — splitting herds of cows into groups, then making sure each group stays separate from the others — and the horses can do all this by themselves (once properly trained). It was hugely eye-opening.

After our first stage of walking along the trail we approached a clearing. “All right! Now how’s about going a little faster?!” said Brandon. Nick looked at me. I looked at Nick. We nervously assented. Brandon continued, “Just make a kissing sound and give her a good kick in the sides — don’t worry for her, she’s over 1100 pounds — you won’t hurt her.” To be honest I was more worried about me getting hurt than my horse (Stella), but I kept that to myself.

Apparently you don’t say “Giddy-up!” — a kissing sound will do it, though this may depend on who trained the horse. I always figured it would be funny to train the horse to run when someone yells “stop” and to stop when someone yells “run!”… so it’s probably lucky I’m not a horse trainer.

And they can go fast. At least it seems fast when you’re up on top. I was bouncing around like a cartoon cowboy — I couldn’t walk properly for two days afterwards. But then we learned how to ride even when the horse is going fast and not to hop around in the saddle: it’s to do with your legs. Holding on for dear life with your hands doesn’t work.

In all it was a really wonderful day. Out in wild nature, miles from modernity we felt free in every sense. We followed a rugged trail over hills, through valleys, across streams; the wind was blowing cool, but everything was brightened by a warm September sun; I’d say it was one of the best experiences in my life. Brandon was great, knowledgeable and friendly and he pointed out some local relics as we went through the wooded dales. We saw a real, 1890s moonshine keg (moonshine, for those not in the know, is illegal/homemade liquor — not so good to drink, but fine if there’s nothing else available) and the remains of an old stone fireplace built by a hermit who was trying to keep out of the civil war circa 1863. So we had history, nature, freedom and real animal contact all in the same wondrous moment. It was perfect.

Now. Being a real Nashville cowboy, Brandon also plays guitar — country music of course. He’s starting to get some success in a difficult field, and he’s on youtube with his song entitled, appropriately enough, “Rodeo Cowboy”. Check him out!

The Road In Between

On The Road

I’m backtracking a little here, but it wouldn’t be right to blog a roadtrip without some mention of the road and what we find thereon.

In the states there are many different types of roads, all driving on the right: Interstates (the big ones); Turnpikes (like Interstates, but you have to pay); US Highways (smaller Interstates); and Rural roads. We’ve been trying to steer clear of the bigger routes just because the smaller ones are more scenic and less manic, though occasionally we’ll do a “speed boost” and jump on I-95 or wherever just to make up some time.

Other road users are generally considerate and non-life-threatening, and driving is a pleasurable experience. the only issue is really around the big cities where two or more Interstates merge — we see accidents at those points every day and you really have to stay alert.

The signs are a little confusing at times, but we have maps. We haven’t found a map that’s really helped us yet, but we’re still looking….

 

Murfreesboro Civil War Battlefield

One of the nice things while driving is that you’ll suddenly notice, or you’ll remember that “hey! Aren’t we near that place? We could go take a look.” One of these places was Murfreesboro on the way into Nashville.

On December 31st, 1862 — one day before Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclomation — 81,000 men from the Union and the Confederacy here enacted one of the Civil War’s bloodiest battles. The Union was trying to capture the Nashville Turnpike and Murfreesboro. The battle was known as Stones River and in all 23,000 men died in just two days of fighting. Now the site is well maintained by the National Park Service; we were given an explanation of what happened by a friendly park ranger, we toured the museum and battlefields, and it was all free!

Above is “The Battle Of Stone River near Murfreesboro, Tenn.” by Kurz & Allison, 1891. Below, pictures from the site today (including Nick wondering if he could shoot me with a cannon).

 

The Deep Blue In The Deep South

On the way out of Chattanooga, with a few hours to use, we ducked into the Tennessee Aquarium — the world’s largest freshwater aquarium, though they also have a great range of our salt-water friends too. This wasn’t free, but it was well worth our $20 a head ticket. They had everything: sharks, crocodiles, jellyfish, seahorses and a special exhibit of penguins. I won’t say any more on this, I’ll just put a few of the pictures up.

Top Ten Things To Do In Nashville

Music City it is called, and justifiably so. Live bands and singers are on show in almost every Nashville bar and honky-tonk you could care to wave a guitar at. The people (those who aren’t tourists) are friendly, relaxed and helpful and this is one city I could live in quite happily. Probably, to appreciate this all properly you’d have to be a real country music fan, but there is something for everyone. Some folks are clearly just living it up and getting drunk at 12 midday. (Not us, you may be surprised to learn….) Here is a top-ten list of things to do in Nashville, Tennessee in no particular order. The ones we haven’t done yet, we are doing tomorrow.

1) Visit The Country Music Hall Of Fame (And Museum)

It’s not even necessary to be a country music fan. This place takes you on a journey through the whole of country music history and has orginal lyrics to some songs by Dylan and a whole host of other memorabilia. Do that thang.

Oh how I love guitars

 

2) Buy Cowboy Boots

Ok, so they’re expensive, corny, probably damage your feet, and are of little practical use if you don’t own a horse, Buuut, they are cool. Try and get respect in Nashville without ’em…. These are the third pair of my life, black, simple, real made-in-America, and look “good” with jeans or with smart clothes. And they’ll last. And you can go line dancing in them. There is one real expensive place to buy them in town: Nashville Cowboy, on 2nd Avenue and the folks in there were great. However, unless you want to pay 800 dollars for a pair, you’d better try someplace else. A good shop was Trail West — also on 2nd Avenue. They were less frills and spills than the other place, but still far better than the “buy three pairs of boots for 50 bucks” shops that plagued Commerce Street and broadway.

Mah boots!

 

3) Get Tattoos

I’m just going to put these up, then sit back and wait for the shocked, scandalized and reproachful phone calls from my mother.

My ragged pirate flag

Nick's "to dare is to do" tattoo -- motto of the Tottenham Hotspur Football Club and worthy advice in life always

 

4) Get Drunk In A Honky-Tonk

Well, we weren’t hugely drunk, but I’m afraid, a bit drunk, I really was. the band was loud, the food was spicy and completely unhealthy, the staff were refreshingly irreverent (though very friendly), the drinks were strong and the girls were easy (though, before you ask; no, I’m taken). It was a perfect place, but Nashville is full of perfect places. Our bar of choice was the Tin Roof on Demonbraun Street. Recommended.

Just a small sample of what you can drink

 

5) Appreciate The Old Architecture

I don’t even know what this building is, but it’s great. Just sitting there on Nashville’s Broadway, about a stone’s throw from the honky-tonks.

Old and Beautiful

 

6) Appreciate The Modern Architecture

I don’t even know what this building is. But it’s modern and beautiful and about a stone’s throw from the honky-tonks. (Yes, I will admit my ignorance regarding architectural matters. If anybody wants to enlighten me, then I’m very willing to listen.)

New and Beautiful

 

7) Listen To A Cowboy Radio Station

So they’re rough-and-ready; they make on-air mistakes, but they’re entertaining and if you like that kinda music, it’s great. And sure, I like that music. The conversation went like this: (both speakers are male, mid-fifties, with deep southern accents).

speaker 1: So I know you’ve got us a story bout good ol’ jack…”

speaker 2: Well, yeah I do. Y’see, he used to drive a hearst, filled up in the back with Jackie D and beer the whole time.

speaker 1: A “hearst”?

speaker 2: Yep, a you stab ’em or shoot ’em, we pack ’em, slab ’em and bury ’em kind of a hearst. He made one of my favourite songs too.

speaker 1: Well, why don’ you jes play it for us cowboy?

It happened exactly like that. And the song was one helluva tune too.

 

8.) Take Pictures Of All The Elvises On Broadway

There are loads of them. All different and with their own particular style, but all, nevertheless, quite similar. Here’s a sample of two of them. I’ll leave to you the thrill of photographing all the others. The legs always seem to be the same while the torso is in different positions — maybe they’re moldable or something. If you wanted to kit out the trashiest lounge room in the world, one of these would have to be on the to-buy list.

Elvis number 1

Elvis number 2

 

9) Visit Johnny Cash’s Grave

He was the man in black; always fighting for the poor and beaten-down, never stopping in his path to make a few things right, and his songs have that timeless quality that will ensure he lives on throughout the ages. A real legend, not just in country music, but in music in general. Johnny had a few problems in his time and if you haven’t yet seen “Walk the Line” I thoroughly recommend it. We had to go and pay our respects. Not actually in Nashville, but in Hendersonville which is close by. And, of course, we wore black.

And a white horse approached him

 

10) Go Horse Riding

We actually have this booked for Monday, not tomorrow, but I figured it deserved a mention. The old trusty beast on which the west was won, the land discovered and the wars battled. Which other way is there to discover the real feel of the freedom of the great frontiers?

Get on your horse and... no, that's not right...